Chemical Exfoliants: AHA vs BHA vs PHA Explained

If you’ve ever dived into the world of skincare, you’ve probably come across the terms AHA, BHA and PHA. These chemical exfoliants have revolutionized skincare routines, offering a way to achieve smooth, glowing skin without the harshness of physical scrubs. But what exactly are they, and which one is best for your skin? Let’s break it down!


πŸ” Understanding AHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acids)
AHAs are water-soluble acids derived from natural sources like sugarcane, apples, and almonds. They work by loosening the glue that holds dead skin cells together, allowing them to shed and reveal brighter, smoother skin underneath.
βœ”οΈ Common AHAs: Glycolic acid, Lactic acid, Mandelic acid, Malic acid
βœ”οΈ Best for: Dry, dull, aging, or sun-damaged skin
βœ”οΈ Benefits:
Improves skin texture and radiance
Reduces hyperpigmentation and dark spots
Helps with fine lines and wrinkles
Hydrates and brightens skin
πŸ’‘ Pro tip: If you have sensitive skin, go for lactic or mandelic acid as they are gentler than glycolic acid. Always follow with sunscreen, as AHAs can increase sun sensitivity!


πŸ” Understanding BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acids)
BHAs are oil-soluble, meaning they penetrate deep into pores to dissolve excess oil and dirt. This makes them perfect for acne-prone and oily skin types.
βœ”οΈ Common BHAs: Salicylic acid, Citric acid
βœ”οΈ Best for: Oily, acne-prone skin, blackheads, whiteheads
βœ”οΈ Benefits:
Clears clogged pores and blackheads
Reduces inflammation and redness
Controls excess oil and breakouts
Soothes irritated skin
πŸ’‘ Pro tip: Salicylic acid is your best friend if you struggle with breakouts or enlarged pores! Start with a lower concentration (0.5–2%) to avoid over-drying your skin.


πŸ” Understanding PHA (Poly Hydroxy Acids)
PHAs are the gentlest exfoliants among the three. They have larger molecules, meaning they work on the surface of the skin without deeply penetrating, making them ideal for sensitive skin.
βœ”οΈ Common PHAs: Lactobionic acid, Gluconolactone, Galactose acid
βœ”οΈ Best for: Sensitive skin, rosacea, eczema, or skin with a damaged barrier
βœ”οΈ Benefits:
Gently exfoliates without irritation
Moisturizes and improves skin barrier function
Reduces redness and smooths rough skin
Minimizes fine lines and dullness
πŸ’‘ Pro tip: If AHAs and BHAs feel too harsh for your skin, PHAs are the perfect alternative! They also work as humectants, meaning they help skin retain moisture.
Which One Should You Choose? πŸ€”
βœ”οΈ Dry & dull skin β†’ AHA (for hydration & glow)
βœ”οΈ Oily & acne-prone skin β†’ BHA (for deep pore cleansing)
βœ”οΈ Sensitive or damaged skin β†’ PHA (for gentle exfoliation)


No matter which exfoliant you choose, always remember to introduce them gradually into your routine and follow up with a good moisturizer and sunscreen! 🌞

Here’s a comparison table for AHA, BHA, and PHA – the three most common types of exfoliating acids used in skincare:

FeatureAHA (Alpha Hydroxy Acid)BHA (Beta Hydroxy Acid)PHA (Polyhydroxy Acid)
SolubilityWater-solubleOil-solubleWater-soluble
Penetration DepthWorks on skin surfacePenetrates deeper into poresWorks on surface (gentler than AHA)
Best ForDry, dull, sun-damaged skinOily, acne-prone, blackhead-prone skinSensitive, dry, or mature skin
Key BenefitsExfoliates, brightens, evens tone, hydratesUnclogs pores, reduces acne, controls oil, anti-inflammatoryGently exfoliates, hydrates, has antioxidant properties
Common IngredientsGlycolic Acid, Lactic Acid, Mandelic AcidSalicylic AcidGluconolactone, Lactobionic Acid
Irritation LevelModerate (can cause tingling or dryness)Can be drying/irritating for sensitive skinVery low; ideal for sensitive or rosacea-prone skin
Sun Sensitivity RiskIncreases sun sensitivitySlightly increases sun sensitivityMinimal sun sensitivity
Frequency of Use1–3 times per week (depending on skin tolerance)2–3 times per week (or as tolerated)Can be used more frequently (gentle)
Hydration PropertiesSome (Lactic Acid has humectant properties)No direct hydration; often combined with soothing agentsHydrating; attracts moisture to skin
Anti-Aging BenefitsStimulates collagen, reduces fine linesReduces acne-induced pigmentation and inflammationImproves texture, reduces signs of aging gently
Best For Skin TypesNormal to dry, uneven, aging skinOily, combination, acne-prone skinSensitive, dry, aging, or rosacea-prone skin


πŸ’¬ What’s your favorite exfoliant? Share your skincare journey below! πŸ‘‡πŸ’–

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